Married Life

Howdy ho. How's life back home? Life in Mongolia has been a mix of nice and frustrating. Nice at home. Frustrating at work. Though the latter is getting better. The Gordian knot that is the September schedule is slowly giving way to the... well, the slightly less Gordian knot that is the rest of the year's schedule. I'll finally begin team-teaching tomorrow, inshallah. Secondary projects have been slowly taking form as well. ACCESS got off to a shaky start last week, and we also taught our first TOEFL course to teachers from all around Choibalsan. I get to work on that with Kaede and Zoloo, and I can see it turning into my favorite project this year. Kaede got the ball rolling on the Creative Writing Olympics, and quite well too. We've already found an M22 willing to take over next year. Last Monday we headed downtown to see off our sitemate Deb, a VSO volunteer who is now on a three-week horse trek to UB to raise awareness for the problems disabled children face in Mongolia. It's an incredible project, and I'm proud to be helping out with the blog while she's en route. You can see it here. The week before that we took a ride out to Diviz to check in and see how we can keep helping out this year. While we were there, I snapped the picture below of Tsogtsolmaa, one of the unofficial community leaders using the well Marg and Bob helped them build.


This next week will also see the first class of the non-English teachers' English course which Kaede and I are teaching at my school. Apparently, Khan-Uul was selected as Dornod's guinea pig in attaining the "Cambridge Standard," as everyone's calling it. I have yet to see any official document explaining what exactly the Cambridge Standard is, but, from what I've gathered, it's an international standard which, if reached, yields its school equal footing on the world academic stage. That is, a student who graduates from a school that has met the Cambridge Standard has, for all intents and purposes, received the same level of education he would have received in a developed nation. This program has just been introduced to Mongolia, so the Ministry of Education has chosen one school in every aimag to blaze the trail. One of the requirements is that all fifth and tenth grade classes have to be taught entirely in English. That's where I come in. I'm now expected to get all of those teachers to a level where they're competent enough to teach their subject in English. By next year. Even if they weren't working at least forty hours a week and were devoting all of their time to studying the language, this would be a stretch. But of course, they're all expected to maintain their normal schedule and only take two classes a week. And on top of that, most of them don't speak a word of English to begin with. Some of them can't even read the Roman alphabet. Thankfully, Kaede has volunteered to help me out, since she isn't getting a ton of work at her school, and she thinks this program sounds interesting, unattainable though it may be, especially in the given time frame. The most ridiculous part has to be that, even if we somehow managed to teach these teachers enough English, the overwhelming majority of their students, tenth and fifth graders alike, would be completely lost in a class taught entirely in English. Nevertheless, everyone's super excited about it, and they all seem quite surprised that I find it to be such an incredible task.

Sorry for the rant. A nice counterpoint to the craziness of work is the pleasantness of home. Kaede and I, thanks to the advice of some famous food critic on a podcast of NPR's Fresh Air, have begun planning out the week's meals and taking turns cooking, which has only made our delicious home life all the more delicious. Besides cooking, we watch lots of movies and plan lots of lessons and make lots of chit chat. It's a lot nicer than last year, when almost all of our interaction was via a crappy internet connection. All those fun activities aside, it's just nice to have someone to come home to, someone who always looks nice and gives me hugs and kisses and asks me how my day is. And it really is amazing to have her helping me with all these projects. She's a much better, more motivated volunteer than I am, and by golly it spurs me on!

Oh, it was also Zoloo's birthday a few weeks ago! Happy birthday! Here's a pic of her and Krista looking silly playing the air accordion (at my behest).


Hope the foliage is nice wherever you are. It's pretty here, but it ain't Maine.

15 Dead Bats

And we didn't take a picture of any of them! Biggest photofail of my time in Mongolia.

To explain, we arrived back in Choibalsan a few weeks ago, walked into the apartment, and found fifteen dead, dehydrated bats strewn about the place. One of them lay right on our pillow. It was if Dracula had been taking a nap and forgot to pull the shades before sunrise. Fortunately, they were so dehydrated that there wasn't any real odor. Just batdust. Lots and lots of batdust.

To add insult to injury, shortly thereafter we found out that our landlady wanted her apartment back and we had to pack up all our batdust and move. The next three days were a frenzy of apartment-searching, packing, cleaning, and preparing for/attending the first day of school. It was very unpleasant, but I'm relieved to say that we're now all moved into a new place. It's a bit farther away from downtown, but it's bigger, nicer, and just as close to school. We even have a TV that gets BBC World News, which means I get to listen to my favorite apocalyptic rave whenever I want! God I love that booping noise.

Baagii seems happy here, and if Baagii's happy, we're happy. We were so stoked to get him back. The summer seems to have done nothing to stop his progression into the best goddamned cat that ever lived. He's such a sweet little guy. You can see him below getting ready to pounce on me from the bathtub. Strategic genius.


Before coming home to bats, we of course arrived back in Ulaanbaatar safely from America. We spent a week in and around the big city, getting medical and dental check-ups and attending Mid Service Training. It was ostensibly a time to reflect on our first year of service and prepare for our second, but it was actually a chance to see all our friends again, which was really nice. It was held in Terelj, a gorgeous national park northeast of UB. Always nice to see another part of Mongolia.


The last few weeks have seen a lot of cooking, cleaning, movie-watching, etc. School has been... unreliable to say the least. The first month or so is crazy with schedule changes and the like, so it's tough to get any real work done. We've also met the new sitemates! Krista, Koty, and John arrived in Choibalsan a week before we did after training for the summer outside of Darkhan. We don't know them all that well yet, but they seem nice and hard-working, and all three of them joined us for the long walk out to the Pilot's Monument, as pictured below. Tomorrow, John is coming with Kaede and me on the year's first trip out to Division 5. Hopefully he'll fall so in love with those adorable little kindergartners that he'll be begging to take over after we leave.


It's definitely a different atmosphere around here this year. I'd be lying if I said I don't miss all my buds who've moved on from Choibalsan, but it's tough to complain when I have my lovely wife here with me (below you can see the adorable effects of the squid ink pasta Kaede's mom sent us for her birthday... thanks Kayoko!). Between Kaede and Baagii, I've gotta have one of the bestest homes in all of Central Asia!

Two Lovers & An Acorn

Guess who's married! Me!!! Also my wife, Kaede. The wedding went off splendidly. Lots of friends and family came out and it was a simple but fun ceremony/reception. There was a ger-shaped cake and Mongolian-style party games and even a performance by Lord Gaga and his Luscious Ladies, AKA four of my best buds from high school. It was awesome. The folks at Trezzi Farm were absolutely wonderful. After that, we got a little honeymoon out at Mt. Spokane, which was too brief but really relaxing just the same. After that we got in a bit more quality family time. Curt, Kaede's dad, took a good-sized crew of Kaede's and my people to one of his favorite places in the world, Steptoe Butte. It was gorgeous and it became a wonderful night. It was a shame how little time everyone had to get to know one another, but I was amazed by how well everyone got along. It seems that our families and friends are extremely compatible. There are already plans for more reunions, some potentially sans Kaede and me even! So that's great.


On Sunday, Kaede, my old pal Peter, and I got in the car and headed back to California. We caught up to my aunt and uncle Ron and Claire who are in the midst of a mammoth RV trip around the country and spent two wonderful nights with them by Mt. St. Helens and on the Oregon coast. We made it to Monterey on Tuesday. Kaede has been busy tying up some loose ends around the house, so Peter and I did a drive down Big Sur, which was gorgeous. He headed to San Fran today, and now we only have one more full day to get everything together before we return to Mongolia. It's been a crazy month, but we've had a wonderful time. We're definitely glad we got to spend it here, though we do miss a lot of stuff about Mongolia. It'll be nice to return to the Land of the Blue Sky. Until then...

Uncle John & Other Family Members

Clearly I've had trouble finding time for blogging since we got to the states. If you actually care, you're certainly well aware that we made it safe and sound. It's been a lot of fun since then. A lot of meeting new people and eating good foods and relaxing/preparing in the summer sun. We arrived in San Francisco and were greeted by Kayoko, Kaede's delightful mother. She took us to see Kaede's sister Ariel, her brother-in-law Zach, and their two lovely children, Addie and Louie. Although they won't technically be my niece and nephew until Thursday, Uncle John has become my title around here. After a few days in California, we drove up to eastern Washington, stopping in the other Portland to see Rachel and Nick, some grand old Obiefriends, on the way. Up here, I've met just about everyone on her father's side of the family. Curt, her dad, and Aoi, her stepmom, are both wonderful. We've been staying with them for the last two weeks and having lots of fun. Except for six days or so during which I flew back to the East Coast and spent some time with my mother and sister. That was a blast as well, although I don't think I've ever eaten so much in my life. I got to see my good pal Eric as well, also an Obie. It was great to catch up. Upon returning, Ariel and the kiddies had arrived, so we've spent the last week helping take care of them: reading books, going to the pool, cooking food, etc etc. They're adorable little things, and it's been really nice to interact with some toddlers for an extended period of time. Don't get much of that in the Peace Corps.

Now we're immersed in preparations for the big day. Just about everyone rolls/flies into town today. Aunt Claire and Uncle Ron are just a few miles away at this point. It's wicked exciting, but also somewhat overwhelming. I wish I were getting more time to spend with everyone, but oh well. We'll make the most of it. I hope you're all having a lovely summer. Next time I post, I'll be a married man!

Jargalnokhoi, 2010-2011

Okay so that title is a bit melodramatic, since we don't know for sure whether she's dead. But yeah, Jagaa, our beloved dog, is gone. We went to the summer camp in Dariganga that I'd mentioned, and we brought Jagaa along. We figured she'd benefit from the chance to run around and play with other dogs, since our friend Sarah had her puppy Lloyd there as well. And benefit she did. Well actually, she was off leash for about seven minutes before she found the hole into which all the waste from the camp kitchen was poured. Trash, soap, dirt, rotten meat, what smelled like feces. For some reason she jumped in. Eventually she got exhausted of having so much fun and climbed out, only to run around and terrify the campers with what had to be one of the worst odors any of us have ever smelled. We took her down to the lake and shampooed her three times, as you can see above. Even then, the smell remained, though greatly subdued. But in spite of that blip, Jagaa was doing very well. And then one day, when it was time to give her dinner, she was nowhere to be found. A small search party was organized, but to no avail. So we went to bed and hoped the next day she'd show up. She didn't. Kaede and I took a couple hours and walked all around the camp and the town and the areas in between, but, well, how to put it. This is a great big enormous open country, and a dog could wind up just about anywhere. Especially one as lacking in survival skills as Jagaa.

Unfortunately we had to leave camp that day. It was pretty sad. That was about two weeks ago now. I'm pretty much over it, but sometimes something reminds me of her and I get a little upset. She was a lot of work, but she'd come a long way too, and I do miss her. Of course, since we don't know what happened to her, there's always the chance she'll turn back up in Dariganga. Sarah lives there, so she's got her eye out. We may not have seen the last of Jargalnohoi. Either way, at least we still have Baagii!

After that, we swung back by Dornod to pick up our stuff and then headed west to Arkhangai for Naadam, the festival of the three manly sports. That was pretty nice. Our good friends Andrew and Pico came along, so it was nice to show off Kaede's beautiful former home. The last day we went to some hot springs, which was simply divine, in spite of the nasty sunburn I got.

Now we're sitting in the Chinggis Khaan International Airport, awaiting our flight to Beijing. There we'll sit around for about four hours and then hop on a plane to San Francisco. I can't believe we're going back. It's gonna be weird. It seems even weirder than the fact that we'll be married in a month, although perhaps that'll hit me harder as it approaches. Anyway, I hope you're all having a wonderful summer! I'll try to keep blogging from the states.

Deadbeat

Yeah, sorry, I've been pretty remiss on posting recently. But that is of course because a lot has been happening! First off, I believe when last I posted, it was just prior to the English for Tourism course we'd been working on. Seems like ancient history now, but I do recall that it went pretty well, in spite of the entire city of Tsetserleg losing power for four days straight at the end of the week. Made printing materials and playing the dialogues we'd recorded somewhat challenging, but whatever. We managed. The students' levels weren't quite as advanced as we'd planned for, so only about a third of them wound up passing, but that's the way lots of English courses turn out around here. Although in school settings, failing students looks bad, so even if a kid doesn't speak a word of English, he'll likely pass every course he ever takes. It's the single most devastating challenge TEFL volunteers face. Anyway, that pic above is Kaede and me with the whole class in front of the Arkhangai Museum, which we got to see for free after having the curator come give a guest speech to the group. It was pretty neat. I especially liked this painting on the wall which glorifies the Stalinist purges of the Buddhist monks which occurred in the 1930s and which, as I may or may not have mentioned, were perpetrated by the man after whom my humble city of Choibalsan is named.


After the class, we took a few days to relax, first by hanging out around the apartment and then by going for a lovely overnight camping trip! We hiked three miles through a painful hailstorm to the river south of town, set up camp, did some fishing, built a big fire, and had a wonderful time. That's when the picture at the bottom was taken. Dornod is nice and all, but it's kind of a shame that I couldn't move to Arkhangai. It's honestly one of the most gorgeous places I've ever been in my life. Following the camping trip, we got to cleaning and packing, which was quite an endeavor. It took a few days, but as stressful as it was, actually getting all her stuff (as well as two pets) a thousand kilometers across Mongolia was even moreso. We broke it up with a few days in UB, which took a bit of the load off, but when we'd made it to Choibalsan last week and hauled all her stuff into the apartment, it was quite a relief. The next week was spent moving Kaede into the apartment and setting everything up in the homiest way possible. Peace Corps wound up setting her up at a school right near my place, so moving is somewhat unnecessary, although my apartment is a bit small for two humans, a cat, and a dog. Whatever. We can deal. Especially seeing as this is a country where a family of six will live in a single ger ten feet in diameter.

Yesterday we took a five hour ride south to Sukhbaatar province. Tomorrow, we'll go with our friend Sarah to her small town, Dariganga, which is right on the Chinese border, to help with an English summer camp she's organizing. A lot of our other friends from last summer will be there, so it should be nice. We're packing a lot in, however, as next week we'll return to Choibalsan for all of a day to pack for the states and tie up our loose ends. Then we'll head back to Arkhangai for Naadam, the festival of the Three Manly Sports. Following Naadam, it's UB for a couple days and then, on July 16, AMERICA! Total craziness.

Нэг жилийн дараа

Well, believe it or not, one year ago today, I was touching down on Monglian soil for the first time (there I am saying goodbye to the fam), along with all the other M21s. And perfectly enough, the M22s, Peace Corps Mongolia's next generation, have just arrived themselves. A lot of volunteers go in to UB to welcome them, but unfortunately Kaede and I are much too busy with our English for Tourism project. So busy, in fact, that that first sentence is actually a lie. I meant to get this post out yesterday, but the class has officially started, and now we barely have time to sleep, let alone blog. It's worth it though, as already, in spite of the challenges and setbacks we've faced, this feels like one of the most useful things I've done in my service. How appropriate for it to begin in earnest exactly a year to the day after I arrived in country.

I've mused enough on this blog about the nature of time and how it flies and yet barely seems to crawl along at all and all the things that have happened and changed in the past year, so I'll spare you all of that (partially because I just don't have the time to get into it), but suffice to say, it's been a hell of a year, and I can't believe we're halfway done.

Anyway, it's late over here, so I gotta try and get some shuteye. I will, however, share with you Baagii's one-year-in-country present to Kaede and me: his stunning impersonation of a pie.

The Whole Family

Heya. It's been a little while, which as usual means I've been busy. Actually, I'm not even in Choibalsan right now. I was back less than a week before I decided to head to Arkhangai a bit early. Pretty much nothing was going on at my school because of tests and graduation preparations and whatnot, whereas Kaede needs help with the English for Tourism seminar we're teaching together in a few weeks. I felt a bit bad leaving my HCA early, and it was sad to say goodbye to my sitemates, most of whom won't be there when I come back, but it wound up being a question of getting work done versus not getting work done. Believe it or not, I chose the former. Of course, there were other motivations as well.


Before I headed out on Tuesday, there had been some excitements back in Dornod. We had a big end-of-the-year picnic for ACCESS (see above), complete with silly games and spelling bees and lots of food. That was a good time. We also hosted a mighty Mexican night in celebration of Geoff's last weekend in town as well as Bob and Susanne having received, well, a lot of Mexican ingredients in the mail. It was delicious. Perhaps the most entertaining event, however, was a music video that Bob, Joel, and I were asked to appear in. Some woman had written new lyrics to a song to honor this year's graduates from Dornod Institute, and she wanted to record a badass video for it, complete with foreigners pretending to play instruments. Ariukaa, the music teacher at my school, whom you may remember from my entry on Men's Day, provided the vocals, as well as the white-guy hookup. So Bob, Joel, and I showed up on Sunday morning in our finest suits and proceeded to pantomime accompaniment on piano, bass, and guitar, respectively. It was kinda ridiculous, but lots of fun. I was promised a copy of the video. I've yet to get it, but as soon as I do, I'll be sure to upload it.


Also, the day before I left, Danny, Bob, and I headed out to Diviz to have the families who are to receive sheep sign their contracts (see adorable children below). We'd finally reached our goal a few days prior, and they should be getting the livestock right around now, so thanks so much to everyone who helped out! I was glad I got to make it out there, as next year, I'm the new liaison for all Diviz-related projects. It's a bit intimidating since Danny, Bob, and especially Marg have done the large majority of the work so far, but I'm sure they'll help me out.


On Tuesday morning, after a night of frantic and confused packing, Jagaa and I set off for the transportation center. Since I'm gonna be in Arkhangai for a month, I figured it made more sense to bring the dog than to find someone to take her. I was worried about whether or not I'd be able to find a ride that would allow me to take a dog, but it proved to be little trouble. I just had to pay some extra money. After the long trip in and a cold, restless night in UB, we found a ride to Arkhangai the next day. Jagaa did wonderfully in transit. She must have felt a little uncomfortable, because she mostly just laid on my lap and slept. Needless to say, once we arrived and she saw Kaede and Baagii again, all the energy she'd been storing up exploded outward, but we've been taking her for nice long walks every day, and I think she really likes the more interesting terrain that Arkhangai has to offer. It's been nice to have our little interspecies Mongolian family all together, and while the weather has been quite chilly for late May, I am of course glad to be here. In addition to doing some work on the tourism project and walking the dog, we've been cooking a lot, watching Blackadder, and yesterday, I even ran in a 5k! Kaede's sitemates put together a health fair, and I found out last minute that there was a race involved. I decided to sign up. And, I came in first place among the foreigners! Unfortunately I was the only foreigner participating, and I came in last place overall. It wasn't even a full 5k, I don't think, but I'm just pretty out of shape I guess. It's kind of amazing to think that about a year ago I ran a 9k almost effortlessly. Such is the atrophying power of a Mongol winter.

Birthday Snow

I've had many birthdays in my life, but last week was the first time I'd ever seen snow on May 5. This picture didn't capture it falling as well as I'd hoped, but if you look at the cars and whatnot outside, you get the idea.

Oh, and I stole that Happy Birthday. If I'd taken the pic from farther away, you'd see that it actually says "Happy Birthday, Terrence," in honor of another PCV who apparently had a birthday in the same guesthouse that Kaede and I were staying in a few days prior. They didn't clean the window after his celebrations, so I stole it!

Other than petty theft, my birthday was very nice and laid back. Kaede and I had been in UB a couple days already, so my best present came a bit early, but on the day itself, we laid in bed all morning, got burgers for lunch with some friends, bought a bunch of ingredients, and used said ingredients to make...


BUFFALO WINGS!!! And they turned out pretty damned good, too. Kaede made some blue cheese dressing from scratch which was phenomenal, and we even picked up a couple Dos Equis, which is what the guys and I normally wash our wings down with at the Fajita Grill, our weekly wings haunt back home. I got to speak with lots of friends and family from back home, and we topped it off with an old Clint Eastwood western, which is just what I was craving for some reason. I wouldn't even have changed the snow if I could have. Since we didn't really have to go out much, it just made for something pretty to look at.

Unfortunately, some of the joy of my lovely birthday was shattered the next day, when I got pickpocketed on a public bus. We've been warned numerous times to be vigilant in the big city, as UB is becoming notorious for it's pickpocketers. I thought I was being vigilant by keeping my wallet in an inside pocket of my coat, but the bus was very crowded and super hot, so I didn't want to zip my coat up. I guess it was hanging open enough for some little twerp to reach his hand in, unzip it, and nab the wallet. To make things worse, it was a brand new wallet Zoloo had given me the day prior as a birthday present. However, I was quite lucky in that my camera, which is a lot more valuable than the wallet and its contents, was in the same pocket, and he didn't take that. When we got off the bus, I noticed it was gone, and a woman came up to us to say that she'd seen the crime take place. It had been a boy in his mid-teens with a medical face-mask. People wear those a lot around here when they have a cold to keep from spreading it. Kaede and I wanted to know why she hadn't said something at the time. Turns out, these thieves have spread a vicious rumor that people who interfere with their work are followed home and killed. It's probably quite far from the truth, but it's enough to get people scared. Oh well.

Because of that whole incident, I had to stay in UB an extra day so I could go to Peace Corps on Monday to get a new ID. It meant more time with Kaede though, so I wasn't too upset. As for the reason I was in UB, helping Zoloo with the Olympics, she was so busy seeing her family and I was so busy seeing Kaede, we only met a few times, but she did decently in the Olympics just the same. She's more concerned about the TOEFL, which she signed up to take in early June. If she does well enough, she has a decent shot at winning a scholarship to teach in the states next year, which would be pretty cool.


So yeah, I came back yesterday. My VSO friend Easterlina, who was back home in Kenya for the last couple months, had just returned, and she got me a ride with her in a private car. It cost a bit more than the bus, but I'm never traveling overland any other way again. The bus usually leaves around 8 or 9 and gets in between 11 and midnight. This guy left closer to 9:30, and we arrived in Choibalsan just after 7 PM! I was flabbergasted. I honestly couldn't believe my eyes when we saw the city growing larger in the distance. I realized I'd never come into Choibalsan during the day time. Plus, the ride was much more comfortable than the bus, and he went a different route, which proved to be more beautiful as well. I'm still kind of in shock about the whole thing. UB suddenly seems so much closer. If only I'd figured this out eight months ago.

So now I'm back, with three weeks left of school. Then I head to Arkhangai to help Kaede with the English for Tourism seminar she's putting on. After that, we're not entirely sure what we'll do before we go back to America. As I may have mentioned, we were hoping to take part in this technical training Peace Corps was putting together. However, yesterday we found out that they'd screwed up the schedule for that, and now it's mandatory that you work all summer long to be part of it, so that doesn't really work for us. However, it doesn't really work for any other PCVs, so maybe they'll adjust it a bit. If not, we might try and help out with our friend Sarah's English summer camp down in Sukhbaatar aimag. It'd be nice to get Kaede moved out to Choibalsan at some point before we head back as well, so perhaps we can squeeze that in somewhere. All this stuff should work itself out in the next few weeks, so stay tuned!

A quick one, cause I'm sleepy...

Hey everybody. So, the last week was pretty uneventful. It can be pretty much entirely summed up with this one picture.


TOEFL/Olympics prep with Zoloo and taking care of Pity Cat, neither of which required much energy anyway. I'd pretty much just give Zoloo a few questions to answer in a certain amount of time and then we'd go over her mistakes. As for the cat, well, he's a sleeper.

Jagaa flew back with the M20s today. Since I'm going to UB tomorrow, she went straight to Danny's, as he'll be taking care of her for the week. I went over this afternoon to bring her food for the week and see how she was doing. She seems to be back to her old self, although she lost a lot of weight, as you can see below. When they opened her up on Monday, they noticed the beginning signs of an infection developing on her intestines, so it's definitely a good thing she went in. Unfortunately, her recovery was not as smooth as we'd hoped, or as I'd promised Angie, my saintly friend who agreed to take care of her for the week. She had trouble with her food and antibiotics and spent the first few days throwing up a lot, which explains the weight loss. Additionally, the stress of the operations compounded with all the traveling and transitioning she was doing made her forget all her housebreaking. She pooped and peed a lot on Angie's nice carpet. Furthermore, her poop was black at first, indicating internal bleeding. Add to all that stress the fact that Angie is allergic to dogs and she happened to come down with an ear infection the night Jagaa showed up, and it sounds to me like a recipe for a week from hell. Angie, however, was a real doll about it and took it all in stride. You better believe that Kaede and I will be taking her out to dinner while we're in town this week.


Anyway, gotta get up early and take that godawful bus to UB. Have a good week!

P.S. If you haven't donated yet to our friends at Diviz and you've got some dough to spare, please take a moment and do so now. Donations of any size are accepted, and you should be able to do it with a credit card now, in case the PayPal thing scared you off. Just over two grand is all we have left to get these people the help they so desperately need!