Monday, January 16, 2012

Birthdays for Baagii, Bullets for the Rest

Kaede was walking to school this week when she heard a bang. A moment later, a whimpering dog ran out from between two nearby buildings, slipped on the ice, and collapsed. Blood filled his mouth and flowed from a fresh bullet wound. Soon thereafter, I received a call from my very upset wife. I did my best to console her, but what can you really say in that sort of situation? On her way home a few hours later, the corpse was still there, as well as those of other dogs. I'm sure Kaede would not classify this as one of her better days in Peace Corps.

The dog shootings were among the first things veteran volunteers told us about when we arrived in Mongolia nineteen months ago. Once a year, the police walk around town and shoot all the stray dogs they find. In smaller communities with no real police force, teachers and other employees of the state are fined a nominal amount if they do not kill a dog, although I should add that I've only heard this latter anecdote secondhand. Either way, in a poor country where spaying and neutering are virtually unheard of and often, ironically, viewed as cruel, this is how you control the dog population.

And there's no doubt that the dog population needs controlling. Strays are everywhere in this country, and while most would not harm a human, rabies is also a problem. When they start roaming in packs, even the heartiest of volunteers can't help but get a little nervous. Most Mongolians are downright terrified of dogs, and considering how many stories I've heard of people, natives and foreigners alike, getting bitten, it's not surprising.

Still, it's easy to judge Mongolia for this, and it got even easier this week. What could be more cruel than shooting an innocent dog in broad daylight? Often with children or the elderly right there? Nonetheless, I never stay long in my ivory tower before I recall that at least as many pets are killed every day in America. A lot more, actually: one every eight seconds according to the Humane Society's website. We just have the luxury of shelters and needles so that this can be done behind closed doors in a manner we deem humane. I wonder, if it got to a point where our communities couldn't afford these sorts of services anymore, how long we'd let strays roam our streets before we started tolerating, or even calling for, their destruction, public or otherwise.

And of course, Mongolians don't relish these dog-killing days. Most find it very disturbing, but few would call it unnecessary. They wish it were carried out better, sure, but in general, these people are much more comfortable facing death than we are. Considering nearly half of the population still herds, most Mongolians begin witnessing animal slaughter from a young age. In a country where vegetables are still a bit of a novelty, eating meat is all but compulsory, and Mongolians have come to terms with that, in spite of the bloodshed it requires. Most of these people cannot afford to ignore this reality, and perhaps that's not such a bad thing.

In America, we eat meat and exterminate strays, but we never have to face it. We get clean cities with empty streets and restaurants that sell juicy hamburgers, and we never even have to think about what our lifestyle requires. Of course, nowadays many Americans are turning their attention to just that, and some of our practices are improving as a result, but I think we could learn a lot from Mongolia. Perhaps Michael Pollan should take a vacation here.

On a brighter subject, it was Baagii's birthday recently! Happy birthday Baagii! Well, it wasn't technically his birthday (that's probably sometime in the late summer), but it was a year from the day the little guy followed us into our apartment. For his special day, he got some extra delicious food (see below), a new toy, and continued status as one of the luckiest pets around, whether in Mongolia, the states, or anywhere else in this dog-fearing world.

Monday, January 2, 2012

Y2K12


Happy New Year! We had a wonderful time seeing it in here in Choibalsan. It's a humble little city with nowhere near the organization required to have an official fireworks display, but with China barely fifty miles away, there's plenty of supplies for amateurs to set them off. Our apartment has a pretty decent view of downtown, so all the sitemates plus Zoloo came over and we had quite an hors-d'oeuvre potluck/game night while waiting for the display. I actually think I prefer the haphazard, mostly premature show as opposed to the absurdly overblown and money-wasting jamborees they throw in pretty much every American city.

I wish I had a picture or two to show you (there's one from last year at the bottom of this post), buuuut, well, as the title of this post suggests, there's been a bit of a technological meltdown around here. It was hinted at around the time we got back to Mongolia after our leave when my camera stopped working. Sometimes I can get it to take pictures, but it was getting too frustrating, so I started using Kaede's. Then, last Wednesday, our friend Pico came in from the countryside demanding karaoke, and who was I to say no to a Hudoo Rat? I brought the camera and got a little drunk, and the next day I couldn't find it anywhere. I feel really bad, but luckily Kaede didn't care too much for it. It certainly affects me more, since, as you are probably aware, I'm rather fond of taking pictures. Furthermore, there were some photos from various Christmas festivities which I stupidly had not transferred onto my computer yet, so I guess they're gone (Krista took the one up top, which features Kaede and me having made allowances for some gastrointestinal expansion following our Xmas piglet roast).

Around the same time, this old Acer laptop, which has given me enough trouble already over the last three-and-a-half years, started randomly turning off or giving me the blue screen of death whenever it got jostled even a tad. It's not quite the end of the road yet, but, just to illustrate, I'm stretched out in an extremely uncomfortable position from the couch to reach the keyboard and type this entry so that I don't have to move it from the position in which it was situated on the couch when Kaede and I recently watched Scrooged, which was a major disappointment, incidentally. C'mon Bill Murray. You can do better than that.

I keep telling myself there are much bigger things to worry about in life than computers and cameras, but it's hard not to be bummed when you're living such an exciting chapter of your life, and entering 2012 only amplifies that sensation. Last year was the only full year of our lives during which we'll have been Peace Corps volunteers, and this year is the one in which we'll finish and figure out what's next. Unbelievable.

I hope you all had a wonderful holiday season and that you have high hopes for this next year. Шинэ жилийн баярын мэнд хүргэе!