Of course no one actually calls it that around here, but yeah, I got some intense fucking food poisoning this week. It actually had begun before I made my last post, but I was feeling okay at that point. An hour or two later, however, I had to leave class early, and I didn't even make it all the way home before keeling over and puking pretty much in the middle of town. Classy, right? Miraculously I don't think anyone saw. God save small towns. Anyway, I got home and went right to bed, only to stagger out to the outhouse a little while later, not quite make it, and boot right in the middle of the yard. Of course, my family was very caring and compassionate. I lay there the rest of the day, dozens of random Mongolian phrases cycling through my head like I was sharing my ger with a sadistic study buddy. It did not help that Friday was probably the hottest day we've had here so far (in general it's been shockingly sweltering in this place). According to my thermometer, it was 96° in my ger, which means it probably hit at least one hundred outside. Thus I had the extremely difficult task of trying to remain hydrated without upsetting the exceedingly fragile equilibrium in my stomach. I prayed for rain, and believe it or not, my prayers were answered. It only came down for a half hour or so, and the temperature dropped a mere five degrees, but it was better than nothing. I tossed and turned until nightfall, and then when I finally got to sleep, I had some pretty weird dreams in which I'd developed the power (as a birthday present, it seemed?) to rearrange the fundamental particles of my body into whatever form need be, as well as appopriate the particles from other things for my use. I basically turned myself into a big mountain. It was all very strange, and left me quite disconcerted when I awoke, but at least my stomach felt better.
I'm pretty much back to normal now, but it did linger over the next few days. One major advantage of getting sick was that my family changed up the menu a bit to accomodate me. I ate chicken for the first time in nearly a month, and I'm not gonna lie: I sized the wings up with Buffalo sauce in mind, and I'm VERY pleased to say... I think hot wings are a distinct possibility, so long as I make them myself of course. Once I get to site this fall, I'll have my two big ole bottles of Crystal hot sauce, and with the chicken, butter, and garlic all readily available, all I'll need is some bleu cheese and a good recipe! So I may be begging some of you to send me both of those in the next couple months.
Aside from chicken, one of the other biggest holes in my diet was filled this very morning... CHEESE! This being a big dairy culture, you might be surprised that I'd be lacking that one, but believe it or not, I've seen very little of the stuff so far, and what I have seen is quite different from what we eat in America. I hadn't really noticed its absence for a while, but then a week or two ago, I started craving a grilled cheese sandwich like whoa. I was quite pleased, then, when my mom pulled out a package of the Mongolian equivalent of Kraft singles this morning. Obviously some aged cheddar would've been preferable, but beggars can't be choosers. She then proceeded to fry up a couple eggs, and with the wicked good sourdough bread they eat out here, I made myself quite the egg sandwich. It was wonderful.
These developments were especially refreshing after the way this ailment turned me off to a lot of the Mongolian staples. It was hard to tell at the time whether it was all food I was finding disgusting or just the Mongolian cuisine, but thinking about my culinary options this weekend was an unappetizing endeavor. I just hope what happened to me with koshari while in Egypt doesn't happen again here. For those of you unfamiliar with that story, this one night, about a month into my time in Cairo, I ate a bunch of koshari (a mix of pasta, rice, fried onions, chickpeas, lentils, all topped with a spicy tomato sauce that is pretty much the Egyptian national dish) and then later that evening puked for, shall we say, less innocent reasons than this time around. After that, I could never eat koshari again, which was a shame for two big reasons. One, it literally comprises at least a third of the average Cairene's diet, and two, I had fucking loved it. However, as I've recovered, while I may not be enjoying Mongolian food quite as much as I had been, I haven't been having any real issues either. Although I don't think I ever want to eat another mayonnaise salad. Ugh.
What else is new? Classes are going well. My progress in Mongolian is slowing now that I'm able to get across a lot of my fundamental thoughts and needs, but I'm still learning a lot. Just got to stay motivated. Talking to some of the volunteers who've been here a while, it's astounding to see how greatly their skills vary. Some of them are pretty much fluent after just a year; others are nearing close of service and aren't a whole lot better than I am. They say it depends a lot on where you get sent. If you have a lot of other volunteers nearby whom you see and speak English with a lot, that'll impede your progress. If the people at your workplace speak English well, that'll hurt too. Of course, the biggest factor is oneself. If you make it a priority to keep getting better and to keep putting yourself in situations where you're practicing and improving your abilities, it'll make a big difference. I hope I can maintain that level of devotion. Although it is a bummer that we're learning a language that is spoken almost nowhere but here, and that I'll very likely never use again after August 2012. Oh well.
Overall, life is still pretty good, in spite of my ailment. I've discovered the key to enjoying myself out here is trying to move away from contextualizing everything in American terms. It's tough, since I've spent about twenty-three years of my life in the U.S. and only three weeks in Mongolia. When I was in Egypt, it wasn't such a big deal, since even at the beginning I knew I'd be back in less than five months... not that long a time. So when I thought things like, "Oh I can't wait to tell my friends back home about this!" or "I wonder what so-and-so is up to?" or "God I wish I could just sit down to take a crap," they didn't drive me crazy. But now, with more than two years until those thoughts can be satisfied, it's a little less comfortable to keep thinking them. I've been pleased, however, with my ability to let go and just dive into this life, and I'm having a great time because of it.
Some exciting stuff is coming up in the next few weeks. As you probably know, Sunday is the 4th of July, and we're trying to pull together some sort of a barbeque out here as a community. We even have some barbeque sauce! The concept of a barbeque is actually pretty popular in Mongolia, although it manifests itself somewhat differently. It probably won't surprise you to learn that they don't fire up the ole propane grill. Rather, from what I understand, they use some kind of a metal container with hot rocks to make a pressure cooker of sorts. Hopefully we'll get this all pulled together and have quite the Independence Day.
Then, this upcoming Monday we have our first TAP (of two), or Trainee Assessment Packet. It's basically an examination of the development of our Mongolian language skills, our TEFL progress, and our cultural immersion. I guess that's not that exciting, but at least I'm not concerned about it. While I still have a long way to go, I feel pretty good about my progress so far. After that, on Wednesday, we head back to Zuunmod for Mid-Center Days. I don't know why we have Mid-Center Days, but it's really an excuse to see the whole gang again, and that is exciting. We'll return for the weekend, and we have the beginning of the next week off for Naadam, the celebration of the Three Manly Games (wrestling, archery, and horseback riding). Unfortunately our town celebrates Naadam while we're in Zuunmod, but apparently they're having some kind of secondary celebration for us when we get back, which seems kind of unnecessary, but I'm sure it'll be fun.
The next week it's back to school. I can't believe we're almost halfway done training!
Oh, and here's a picture of my emee (grandmother) rocking out on my guitar. So great. And that picture up top is what a typical sunset looks like from my ger.


